THOUGHT your acne years were over? Turns out, 11.5 per cent of UK adults are currently suffering from adult acne.
Meanwhile, over a third have suffered from acne at some point in their life, according to research conducted by click2pharmacy.
GettyAcne can shatter your confidence and hit at any age – but you can take steps to tackle it[/caption]
The same research also found that in the 12 months up to January 2022, NHS England spent £22.7 million on topical treatments for acne.
Dr David Jack is an aesthetic doctor and says adult acne is one of the most common skin conditions seen in adulthood.
Dr David said as an inflammatory skin condition “often the cause isn’t clear but in some people there will be identifiable causes which cause the condition to flare up.”
He says acne is associated with skin colonisation of a bacteria known as P. Acne (or C. Acne) in blocked glands, which causes inflammation and a vicious cycle of blackheads and whiteheads.
Polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS) in females, lifestyle factors such as smoking, stress levels, family history and skincare use are all potential acne-causing factors.
Unfortunately, if you had acne as a teen, Dr David says you are statistically at a higher risk of developing it as an adult.
“In some cases of adult acne this is actually considered a ‘relapse’ of an underlying condition.
“This suggests that there is possibly an underlying immunological basis that is then exacerbated by an external trigger,” he explains.
Struggling to conquer acne? Dr David shares his tips to deal with this often debilitating skin condition…
DEAL WITH YOUR GUT
“There is increasing evidence of an association between gut health and inflammation and acne,” reveals Dr David.
Although it’s not completely understood, he says it is thought to potentially be associated with disruptions to the normal gut microbiome and/or dietary factors related to foods that can cause inflammation.
“There are associations in acne with high intake of animal based products, particularly dairy.
“Dairy products in particular are thought to contain higher levels of sex-hormone-like compounds, as well as being relatively inflammatory in the gut, which is believed to cause increased levels of inflammation in the skin,” adds Dr David.
To help optimise the microbiome of the gut – the collection of bacteria and microbes in it – Dr David says it is important to consider things from two perspectives.
First: “Adding the bacteria we want (with probiotics) and supplements that contain live ‘good’ bacteria that we want to colonise our guts.
“Generally speaking you should look for a supplement containing about 30 billion colony forming units (CFUs) and a blend of lactobacillus and bifidobacterium.”
The second consideration is feeding the good bacteria what they like, to help them flourish.
These are prebiotics. “Prebiotics include fermented foods such as pickled vegetables, kombucha, kefir, raw vegetables, particularly chicory root, leeks, onion, Jerusalem artichokes and asparagus, as well as raw garlic,” says Dr David.
1. EAT THIS, NOT THAT
“Antioxidant-rich foods include brightly coloured fruits and vegetables, green leaves, pulses and certain teas,” says Dr David.
These can help lower inflammation and in turn lower the risk of acne.
“Being largely plant based wherever possible is a good approach when it comes to maximising the levels of antioxidants and anti-inflammatory chemicals in foods.
“I will generally also advise people to avoid sugary, processed foods and, although there is no definitive evidence for this yet, a diet low in meat, particularly processed meats.”
Plus, Dr David also warns foods that have been cooked with dry heating processes such as frying and grilling are generally high in reactive molecules and Advanced Glycation End Products (AGEs), so cooking techniques such as steaming are thought to be better.
2. TAKE YOUR SUPPLEMENTS
Supplements – as the name suggests – can supplement your diet.
Dr David says there is “strong evidence” that supports the use of certain oral antioxidants for skin health.
This includes vitamin C and E, Omega-3 fatty acids, retinoids (such as vitamin A) and trace metals (such as zinc).
“It is important to take a holistic viewpoint and think about the diet as a whole and how this could relate to inflammation in the skin,” says Dr David.
In other words, don’t assume that taking supplements can counteract any negative effects of eating sugary, processed foods every day!
3. CONSIDER STRESS
If your life is a little too busy, you’re feeling overwhelmed or you’ve been dealing with emotional and/or physical trauma, you might be experiencing stress.
“Adult acne is also linked to increased stress levels, so supplements such as adaptogens and nootropics which help balance stress levels may help with this aspect of things,” says Dr David.
These supplements can be sourced at all good healthcare stores and may contain adaptogens such as Ashwagandha and ginseng which are said to help the body respond to stress and anxiety.
Getting enough sleep, exercise and rest is also important – speak to a loved one or your GP if you are feeling chronically stressed.
4. SORT YOUR SKINCARE ROUTINE
Certain products and ingredients offer a more targeted approach and could help reduce acne.
Dr David recommends looking for a cleanser that contains benzoyl peroxide.
He adds: “The overproduction of sebum (oil) in the skin can be treated topically using a number of ingredients in skincare, such as AHAs (alpha-hydroxy acids), BHA (salicylic acid), retinoids and niacinamide – many of which also decrease inflammation in the skin, which in turn reduces risk of longer term scarring.”
You might also want to consider retinoids; a particular group of skincare ingredients that are especially useful in acne.
“These vary in strength from over-the-counter forms from retinyl esters to retinol and retinoic acid.
“These have a multitude of benefits in acne, including regulation of sebum production, pore unclogging, inhibition of acne bacteria and treatment of hyperpigmentation,” says Dr David.
Prescription retinoids, such as tretinoin or tazarotene, are also an option although Dr David warns these may need to be introduced to the skin gradually as they can lead to dry, flaky and sensitive skin.
“Often with prescription grade retinoids, I introduce them over a four to six week period, with use only once per week on week one, building up to twice per week on week two, three times per week on week three and so on.”
5. ADVANCED OPTIONS
“More advanced medical therapies are available for cases that are not controlled using topical treatments, including oral antibiotics, oral retinoids (roaccutane) and some laser-based treatments to reduce bacteria on the skin surface, such as TheraClear,” says Dr David.
He adds that if acne is becoming such a problem and over the counter skincare isn’t cutting it, it might be time to visit your GP.
“They may be able to prescribe topical retinoids which, for many, will really help.”