Some wild, wild waves are on the way to Hawaii.
A sizable northwest swell is anticipated to impact the island chain through Friday, potentially resulting in waves up to 50 feet in height, the FOX Forecast Center warns.
The swell originates from a powerful 966mb storm centered some 1,500 miles north of Hawaii Thursday, set to impact California on Saturday. Rapidly rising surf will reach warning levels along most north and west-facing shores. In addition, a swell of this size will adversely impact coastal areas, especially during high tide later Thursday evening.
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Preparations should be finalized for significant coastal impacts as ocean water runs up and inundates beaches, potentially affecting coastal properties and roadways.
The National Weather Service in Honolulu has issued a High Surf Warning for surf rapidly rising to 40 to 50 feet along the north-facing shores of Oahu and Molokai, and 35 to 45 feet along the north-facing shores of Maui.
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Surf could also rapidly rise to 25 to 35 feet along the west-facing shores of Oahu and Molokai. For Kona and Kohala, surf is expected to reach 8 to 12 feet late Thursday, then increase to 12 to 16 feet from Friday into Saturday.
The local weather office typically issues between 11 and 12 High Surf Warnings annually. So far, in 2024, they have issued five.
Historically, it is the time in late January to mid-February when the north shores of Hawaii see their biggest waves.
“This is the time of year that they are ready for it,” FOX Weather Meteorologist Britta Merwin said. “Some of the biggest surf contests happen during the winter because of the swells that come in across the Pacific. The reason why it is so good is because there’s nothing to disrupt the swell.”
People should expect ocean water to surge and sweep across beaches, coastal benches and lava flows, potentially impacting coastal properties and infrastructure, including roads.
The FOX Forecast Center said most beaches will have powerful longshore and rip currents. Large breaking waves and strong currents may impact harbor entrances and channels, causing challenging boat handling.
“We always have these big swells that come in the forecast, and then we have rogue waves that happen,” Merwin said. “The danger is real. There are signs up, so pay attention to the signs. You don’t want to get too close. Give a little bit of space and enjoy it from a distance.”