“3D encapsulated rose” nail art is trending on TikTok.
The technique involves applying multiple layers of polish and shaving them back with an electric nail drill to create the illusion of a rose encased in glass.
You can achieve 3D rose nails at home with the right tools and some practice.
For every milk-bath manicure and shade of rich-girl pink, TikTok has a maximalist nail trend proving that sometimes, more really is more. In November 2022, the beauty corner of the app was taken with an intricate nail design that has since blossomed: the 3D rose-encapsulated manicure. The complex trend, which may have originated in Russia, is a take on 3D resin art. While the technique requires a few hours of practice to master, the careful layering process makes for an enchanting finished product.
“It’s really quite an achievable look,” Ally Evans, a nail technician based in the UK, tells POPSUGAR. “It’s labor intensive, but even if you’re relatively new to nails, I don’t think it would be unachievable. I was so pleased with how it turned out [the first time]. I couldn’t believe it. You sit there and you’re like, ‘I made that. I did that.'”
On paper, the process seems straightforward. Begin by applying a thin coat of clear gel to the entire nail. Once the layer has cured under an LED lamp, apply a small bead of polish to the center of the nail. Evans stresses that the smaller the dot, the more defined the finished petals will appear.
Next, using a thin painter’s brush (the brush on the cap of your polish bottle is not recommended), apply a ring of petals around the initial dot of polish. Make sure to keep the layers of paint as thin as possible. Here, it’s crucial to avoid perfection and vary the width and dimension of each petal to emulate the look of a naturally imperfect rose. “If all of the petals are the same width, you can end up with an ‘onion rose,'” says Zara Khan, a nail artist from the UK.
Once the first row of petals is on, turn your nail upside down and hold for a few seconds. This allows gravity to smooth out the polish. Cure the nail again, and apply a clear coat before curing again. The clear polish creates definition amid each set of petals. Evans adds that curing the gel in between each layer is crucial to avoid an allergic reaction to unset polish.
Continue this layering pattern until you’ve reached the edge of the nail. The number of petal layers will depend on the size of the nail, so if you’re a beginner, it’s best to start with a shorter tip. After curing the final coat of clear polish, use an electric nail file with a coarse bit to shave down the top layers and unearth the ripple pattern. (Think: the rose encased in glass in “Beauty and the Beast.”)
“You could do it with a hand file if you wanted to be super careful,” Evans says. She explains that it’s important to check your work as you’re filing to make sure the sanding is even and you’re not removing chunks of polish. Khan adds, “It’s quite a bit of bulk and product buildup as a result of adding all those layers on, so you need to make sure you have a decent grit to file away a lot of that product.”
Depending on your skill level and experience, a single nail can take anywhere from half an hour to nearly two hours. For this reason, Evans recommends requesting only an accent nail at salons or if you’re trying to re-create the look at home. As you get more comfortable, you can experiment with mixing gel and acrylic polishes, layering bold contrasting shades, and playing with color gradients.
If the entire process seems overwhelming, remember to take your time, let each layer set in between coats, and aim for imperfection. “Don’t let the concept daunt you, but also don’t worry if it doesn’t end up looking perfect, because it’s not supposed to look perfect,” Khan says. Ahead, see how TikTok brought the 3D encapsulated rose nail trend to life.